Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

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Mike Pingleton
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Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Mike Pingleton »

I’m not sure how many posts this will require but here goes. In January I spent 14 days on the ground in the Peruvian Amazon. This was a herp-dedicated expedition thru MT Amazon Expeditions (formerly known as Margarita tours). It was a fantastic trip, and the MT folks facilitated things so that most of my time was spent either herping or photographing the herps we found (100-plus species and subspecies) or running around in circles yelling 'WOW!'. Seven of us made the journey, and Dick Bartlett and Lorrie Smith headed the expedition and kept things running smoothly. I ended up taking 3200-plus pictures and video, and I still have 2-3 days' worth left to process.

Getting from my house to our jumping off point in Iquitos required 36 hours and involved two train rides and three flights. Coming into Iquitos I caught glimpses of rivers and forest thru the clouds:
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One night in Iquitos and then down the Amazon early the next morning on the good ship Nenita:
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We spent 12 hours or so traveling down the Amazon and then up the Rio Orosa, to the Madre Selva biological station, our home for the next week. I’ve wanted to see Amazonia for more years than I like to think about, so it was a real pleasure to watch the river and shoreline as we chugged along.
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Freshwater dolphins often hung around the confluence of smaller rivers and the Amazon, and we caught glimpses of both the blue-gray and pink varieties.
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We reached our camp late in the afternoon and that night made our first hike thru the forest. Over the course of our stay we walked trails at night and during the day, went out on the river in small boats and kayaks, and spent part of each day photographing herps and other critters.
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Fringe-lipped Treefrog, Scinax garbei in situ.
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A very large Peruvian Pink-toed Tarantula (Avicularia urticans):
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Snail-eating Snake, Dipsas catesbyi:
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The insects were fantastic – here’s a leaf-mimic katydid
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A small tree in our compound had a number of bromeliads:
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and those bromeliads contained a number of dart frogs, Dendrobates ventrimaculatus complex
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Twist-neck Turtle, Platemys platycephala melanonota
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White-lined Monkey Frog, Phyllomedusa vaillanti:
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Here’s a snake that has been high on my must-see list for many years – the Red Vine Snake, Siphlophus compressus:
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Looks more like a Purple Vine Snake to me, but OK. Still badass.
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Smoky Jungle Frog, Leptodactylus pentadactylus. We saw a handful of these awesome monsters and probably walked right by a few – they blend in with leaf litter in the forest quite well. Some nights we could hear the males call off in the forest – a deep ‘woop, woop, woop’.
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Young Rough-Skinned Frog, Hyla cinerascens (formerly H. granosa) with gut pile en parade:
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There are plenty of flashy frogs in Amazonia, but this bumpy little guy was one of my favorites – Big-head Rain Frog, Ischnocnema quixensis
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Boa constrictor constrictor. This snake was in the Dart Frog Tree one morning, and for a while we all thought someone had ‘planted’ it there for some fun. Nope, it got there under its own steam. Yet another cool herp for the long list of satisfying finds after years of wishful thinking!
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For me, a significant portion of my time awake consisted of one thunderstruck moment after another. If a vote was taken among our group as to the most significantly awesome herp found, the winner might be this Giant Amphisbaenian, Amphisbaena alba:
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You look at these critters in books and think, ‘well, it would be nice to see one, but how much chance is there?’
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None at all if you don’t go :)

Variable Clown Treefrog, Hyla triangulum. We saw a number of variations on this froggy theme.
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Another nice Boa constrictor constrictor:
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Western Leaf Lizard, Sternocercus fimbriatus:
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Yellow-headed Calico Snake, Oxyrhopus formosus. A local brought this snake to us, and unfortunately, it expired of unknown causes shortly thereafter.
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Day or night, I enjoyed the hikes we made through the forest. I couldn’t get enough of the ceibas and other big trees, the flowers, bromeliads, etc.
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Some of the trails were easy to walk, others were challenging in places :)
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A troupe of Pigmy Marmosets lived in a tree along the trail to the river, and everyone got pretty good looks at them (and vice versa) during our stay.
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Lepidoptera were plentiful, and I took a lot of pix, although I haven't gotten many identified yet. This Emerald looks similar to those I find around my home.
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We saw a few Bothrops atrox during our stay, here is the first:
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Juvenile Streamside Lizard, Neusticurus ecpleopus
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And I think I’ll end this segment with a head shot of Anolis transversalis.
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-Mike
jake edwards
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by jake edwards »

Very Cool..... I would love to go to Peru. I am going to Colombia this summer but hopefully I will be going there next summer.
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MaartenSFS
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by MaartenSFS »

I hope to visit some proper tropical rainforest some day soon. I've been in a lot of subtropical rainforest in Asia, but you make herping look easy. The sheer amount of life that you encountered there is mind-blowing. I had to work for most of what I found. Peru/Ecuador would be my top Amazonas destination, but Belize is more affordable. Keep the photos coming!
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Biolog_Guy TN »

Awesome post of what appears to have been an amazing trip! Outstanding photos of such a beautiful place and its wildlife! This is one trip that I am going to have to make one of these days. Thanks, Mike, for sharing!

John Maxwell
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Don
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Don »

Bravo! Encore!
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Nir
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Nir »

Great stuff! The Sinax frog is amazing!!

Can't wait for more!
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Steve Barten
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Steve Barten »

I've come to have high expectations when I see that you've written a post, but this is epic, even better than expected. Loved the dolphin, and the Amphisbaenian is other-worldly. Thanks for including jungle scenes and the invertebrates, which really round out the experience. Can't wait to see the rest as you sort through them and add more.
How are you going to top this? Will you still find pleasure in herping Illinois?
Silly me, of course you will.
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by BillMcGighan »

Superb start.
Can't wait fo next part.
.
.
:?: :?: :?:
Two questions:

1 How was the Amphisbaenian found? Night? Day Surface? Day under detritus? Dynamite?

2. Which resources do you use for reference down there? Bartlett? ? Amazon for Dummies?

:thumb:
RobK

Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by RobK »

The stove is definitely heating up. Nice shot of the Phyllomedusa.
Same question as Bill - curious where you found the Amphisbaena?
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monklet
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by monklet »

Wow, very, very wonderful! :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:

So, how did the Amphis (how the frick do you spell it) get found?
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Mike Pingleton
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Mike Pingleton »

Thanks for the comments, everyone. I'm happy to share what I can of the experience.
BillMcGighan wrote:Superb start.
1 How was the Amphisbaenian found? Night? Day Surface? Day under detritus? Dynamite?
2. Which resources do you use for reference down there? Bartlett? ? Amazon for Dummies?
1. If memory serves me right, one of our guides (we had 3 guys who were absolutely awesome) found it at night, swimming in a creek. It sounds unusual but apparently amphisbaenids have been observed in water on other occasions.

2. Reptiles and Amphibians of the Amazon by R.D. Bartlett and Patricia Bartlett. And one of the authors :) Dick was very generous with his decades of experience (I confess to pestering him on a regular basis).

Image
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by justinm »

Mike,

I haven't talked to you since you've gotten back. I think it's time I came over to the Blind Pig for a beer and an earful. Give me shout when you have time, I honestly can't wait to hear about some of this. I wasn't worried that you would have a successful trip, but this has gone past what I would have expected. Can't wait to see the rest!
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by dickbartlett »

Hi Mike,
Guess it was just me --or my computer-- last nite.
Anyway, great post: fantastic pix and documentation.
It was a pleasure to have had you along--although it did take me some time to learn what those ooooohs and ahhhhhhs actually meant<LOL>.
Despite the comparative dryness we had a great trip.
Edwin, Emerson, and Cesar say "howdy."
Cheers/Dick
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CCarille
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by CCarille »

Amazing trip Mike! What lodges did you stay at? I was lucky enough to get to go to the Peruvian Amazon, but was in the south along the Tambopata River. I also did get to see many herps, or stop and photograph the ones I found and had my backup battery die at crucial times, because I was there for a grad class and unfortunately was doing some avian research.

Awesome that you had Dick Bartlett with you. I'm not the biggest fan of his guide for the Amazon, but it had to be great to have someone so knowledgeable with you.

The Dipsas and Siphiophus are amazing! Definitely post more!
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moloch
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by moloch »

Great report, Mike. You guys certainly found lots of interesting herps. I wish that I could have been along as well. Your body must be very confused to have gone from ice to steam and then back to ice!

Did anyone visit Allpahuayo Mishana?


Regards,
David
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Andy Avram »

Fantastic post Mike. I got to hear a little pre-trip talk from both you and Dick and as jealous as I was then, I am 100X more jealous now. Only here would you see so much clatter about the Amphisbaenian, and I also think it is the coolest thing you posted.

Andy
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Ross Padilla »

Some great shots here, Mike. That Giant Amphisbaenian is out of this world. Great post. :thumb:
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Matt Cage »

Mike

Wow, that is some AWESOME stuff! Obviously the critters are spectacular, but the narrative and the quality of the shots was outstanding. It took me a few times to get it all in, and I had already seen some of the photos! I can't wait for the rest of the series.

Isn't it funny how much you find stuff right in the middle of camp at Madre Selva? You could always find something by taking a 15 minute walk around.

Matt
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Gary2sons »

Amazing trip and really awesome pics! :thumb:

Almost like being there...... well........ not quite! :lol:

Looking fowards to the rest! :D

Gary
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by indianajim »

Mike,

Incredible! Your shots are superb! I know you use a nice point/shot in the field. We're you using an SLR for this?
The Amphisbaena was cool and a once in a lifetime I'm sure. Really dug the leaf lizy, variety of shots, herps and the rest! I can't wait to see the next post. :thumb:

Jim
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by KevColubrid »

Mike,
Awesome! Amazing! Awe inspiring! Incredible! The natives are restless, and WE WANT MORE MEAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :beer: :beer:

Kevin
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Mike Pingleton »

thanks for the comments, everyone.

David, I was certainly out of sorts for a few days when I got back home - our last 3 days at Santa Cruz it was close to 100F. I couldn't get warm back home with temps in the teens! We had scheduled a trip to Mishana, but opted instead to pursue a Bushmaster (a tale yet to be told).

Matt, yeah, it was amazing how many species were at our fingertips in camp. And I'm still blown away over how much we saw. I have to go back. :crazyeyes:

Jim, I used my trusty Lumix point-n-shoot most of the time, and a Canon D10 when it rained or I was in a kayak or boat.

-Mike
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Cole Grover »

Simply stunning, Mike. The Ranitomeya (Dendrobates) ventrimaculata in the tree in your camp would have been fantastic... throw a Boa in that same tree and I'd have a stroke. I'm on pins and needles to see the rest of the series!

-Cole
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Dell Despain »

Enjoyable post Mike, you've made me yearn to be in the Amazon basin again, man I love that area.
Your photos are very well done, and for me that second photo of your "purple" vine snake is a winner. Looking forward to you next installment.

-Dell
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Rags »

I can only echo what everyone else has already said. Great post.

The second Phyllomedusa vaillanti shot is superb and the pick of the bunch in my opinion.

Rags.
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Mattrattler »

Mike, you suck... OK, I still love ya man.
That is truly AMAZING. I can't wait to hear the stories.

Very nice pics too my friend
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by pete »

Awesome "hot stove" material!! Can't wait for the other installments!
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Fundad »

:thumb: :beer:

Awesome thanks or taking us with you..

:thumb:
Outstanding
Fundad
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Mike Pingleton
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Mike Pingleton »

thanks, everyone. Cole, I still have a hard time with Ranitomeya - I've been a Dendrobater for a long time :D

-Mike
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by peterknuteberg »

Mike, thank you for not posting 3200 photos in one post. This was a nice bite sized appetizer. Each herp you posted was a mind blower for Midwest guy like me. 100 plus herps is amazing and of course, there was a plethora of other wildlife as well. No doubt, the trip of a lifetime, a great adventure, one that will be talked about over many campfires. :beer:
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Hans Breuer (twoton) »

Words fail me, so:
ImageImageImage

Indeed, what about Illinois and the value of its herpetological attractions henceforth?
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Christopher »

Looks like you guys had a great time, I'm very jealous of the amphisbaena!
:thumb:
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by justinm »

Hans Breuer (twoton) wrote:
Indeed, what about Illinois and the value of its herpetological attractions henceforth?
Hans I think I speak for the boys from Illinois when I say. It's special, it really is. If you ever come to the States check out Chicago for some civilization, then head South for some herping. I think it's world class.
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by BillMcGighan »

If you ever come to the States check out Chicago for some civilization, then head South for some herping. I think it's world class.
Don't do it Hans... It's a trap.....
.
I was arrested in Chicago once. They charged me with smuggling in books!!!
.
Of course, it was thrown out of court.... No one could prove it.....
.
.
.
MP
I've been a Dendrobater for a long time
I got it. I got it.
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Mike Pingleton
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Mike Pingleton »

Hans Breuer (twoton) wrote:
Indeed, what about Illinois and the value of its herpetological attractions henceforth?
I'd say the bloom is still on that rose, as far as I'm concerned...
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by johneddington »

Better get on with it, Mike...It was 60 degrees today. Real herping is just around the corner :)

Regards,

John
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Mike Pingleton
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Mike Pingleton »

Indeed. I looked for my yard garters today - didn't see any, but I expect they'll be out this weekend.
johneddington wrote:Better get on with it, Mike...It was 60 degrees today. Real herping is just around the corner :)

Regards,

John
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by justinm »

Eddington! You never post, or call...
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Hans Breuer (twoton) »

Don't do it Hans... It's a trap.....
.
I was arrested in Chicago once. They charged me with smuggling in books!!!
Thanks for the warning; alas, it comes too late. My first visit to the US, as a 18-year old blues pilgrim, took me to Chicago's South Side. I, too, was arrested there - twice (well, almost). I had long hair in those days, and first they made me strip to my knickers at O'Hare, then a cop mobile came to a screeching halt next to me when I was ambling down Michigan Avenue, looking at the skyscrapers and smoking a freshly-rolled cigarette. Two large cops emerged from the car, came running at me, and snatched the smoke from my hand. After discovering that it wasn't pot, just Dutch rolling tobacco (very popular among European students in those days), they retreated without an apology,cursing under their breath and shooting me black looks all the way back to their cruiser.

But I totally loved the South Side! :D
I've been a Dendrobater for a long time
Is that something like a Master Baiter?
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by narumk07 »

Great trip! That Amphisbaena alba is amazing. I liked the fist pic of the Boa aswell

kevin
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Matt.O »

Glad you finally made the trip Mike, except for the good times herping and sitting around the campfire here in the states my most memorable times have been at Madre Selva and Pacarillo and everywhere else in between on the Rio Oroso. The Amphisbaenian alone would have been worth the trip for me, the guides Devon has on staff are utterly amazing as well as the local children. I remember on one trip there having a herp atlas and also a fish atlas with me in a local village and pointing to pictures of animals i have dreamed of seeing in person only to have the childreb run off in to the forest and streamside and bring those animals back in minutes, simply amazing the knowledge they have of the forest and rivers around them. Look forward to future installments.

Matt
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Mike Pingleton
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Mike Pingleton »

Hans Breuer (twoton) wrote: Thanks for the warning; alas, it comes too late. My first visit to the US, as a 18-year old blues pilgrim, took me to Chicago's South Side. I, too, was arrested there - twice (well, almost). I had long hair in those days, and first they made me strip to my knickers at O'Hare, then a cop mobile came to a screeching halt next to me when I was ambling down Michigan Avenue, looking at the skyscrapers and smoking a freshly-rolled cigarette. Two large cops emerged from the car, came running at me, and snatched the smoke from my hand. After discovering that it wasn't pot, just Dutch rolling tobacco (very popular among European students in those days), they retreated without an apology,cursing under their breath and shooting me black looks all the way back to their cruiser.
Chicago cops don't like hippies, Hans!
Hans Breuer (twoton) wrote:
I've been a Dendrobater for a long time
Is that something like a Master Baiter?
Well, both are hobbies you can pursue at home :D
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Mike Pingleton
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Mike Pingleton »

Thanks Matt. Our guides (Cesar, Emerson and Edwin) were top-notch! And I enjoyed interacting with the local folks, esp. the kids!
-Mike
Matt.O wrote:Glad you finally made the trip Mike, except for the good times herping and sitting around the campfire here in the states my most memorable times have been at Madre Selva and Pacarillo and everywhere else in between on the Rio Oroso. The Amphisbaenian alone would have been worth the trip for me, the guides Devon has on staff are utterly amazing as well as the local children. I remember on one trip there having a herp atlas and also a fish atlas with me in a local village and pointing to pictures of animals i have dreamed of seeing in person only to have the childreb run off in to the forest and streamside and bring those animals back in minutes, simply amazing the knowledge they have of the forest and rivers around them. Look forward to future installments.

Matt
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Melissa Coakley
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Melissa Coakley »

Great pics!! I went on this trip (with Lorrie Smith) back in January 2009 and have been dying to get back there ever since. I think there is something addictive about the Amazon.
:D







http://www.snakehuntingchick.com
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Hans Breuer (twoton) »

Welcome to FHF, Melissa, and congrats on an excellent website. Metal, snakes, and philosophy - you sound like you're just what the herping scene badly needed: another infusion of female intelligence. Cosmos knows there's way too few of that among all the testosterone and cheap beer. Here's hoping that in the future you'll regale us with lots of stories and pics from your adventures.

Cheers, and sorry for hijacking the thread :-)
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Bill Love
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Bill Love »

Excellent !
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Mike Pingleton
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Mike Pingleton »

thanks, Melissa! we know exactly what the other is talking about :) I'm ready to go back too.

Nice website!
-Mike
Melissa Coakley wrote:Great pics!! I went on this trip (with Lorrie Smith) back in January 2009 and have been dying to get back there ever since. I think there is something addictive about the Amazon.
:D

http://www.snakehuntingchick.com
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Mike Pingleton
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Mike Pingleton »

Bill Love wrote:Excellent !
thanks Bill!
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Melissa Coakley
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Melissa Coakley »

Thanks - good to meet both of you!!
Bryan Suson
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Re: Hot Stove Herping: Peruvian Interlude Part 1

Post by Bryan Suson »

Awesome finds Mike and co.! The amphisbaenian is incredible!

-Bryan Suson


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