South Africa 2013, part 2

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Kevin Messenger
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South Africa 2013, part 2

Post by Kevin Messenger »

Continued from part 1: http://www.fieldherpforum.com/forum/vie ... =2&t=20495

21 October 2013 – day 6
Started the morning off with a road cruise:
Imageleopard tortoise Stigmochelys pardalis by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imageleopard tortoise Stigmochelys pardalis by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imageleopard tortoise Stigmochelys pardalis by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

And then we found another:
Imageleopard tortoise Stigmochelys pardalis by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imageleopard tortoise Stigmochelys pardalis by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagegreater kudu by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageLion by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_6027v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Next we drove up on a lion kill:
ImageLion kill (cape buffalo) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagelion kill. cape buffalo by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagelion kill. cape buffalo by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

And the owner of the kill hiding out nearby, note the small injury:
ImageLion by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageLion by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagegrey go-away bird by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageGrey go-away bird by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Next was one of the biggest highlights for me. As we’re driving along, Jean Claude slams on the brakes. On the road in front of us was this incredibly cute little guy:
ImageFlapneck chameleon (Chamaeleo dilepis) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageFlapneck chameleon (Chamaeleo dilepis) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageFlapneck chameleon (Chamaeleo dilepis) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageFlapneck chameleon (Chamaeleo dilepis) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageFlapneck chameleon (Chamaeleo dilepis) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageFlapneck chameleon (Chamaeleo dilepis) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

What was really interesting about this little guy, as Scott and I held him and took pictures, one of the black trackers (from one of the local tribes) that was with us, would never look at it. Anywhere we walked, we would avert his eyes. Paul said that the local witch doctors would tell their tribesmen that if a chameleon breaths on you, you’ll get some sort of pestilence and die. So all of the natives were deathly afraid of chameleons.

Onward we go:
ImageGiraffe by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Nearly every termite mound had these guys, but they usually flee into the mound before one can grab a photo:
ImageRough plated lizard (Gerrhosaurus major) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageRough plated lizard (Gerrhosaurus major) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Paul took us to a rock outcropping to flip some nice looking boulders.
ImageIMG_6179v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

The rock above had all of these guys:
ImageTurner's tubercled gecko (Chondrodactylus turneri) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageTurner's tubercled gecko (Chondrodactylus turneri) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Scott flipping rocks:
ImageIMG_6180v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Another rock had a juvenile giant plated lizard:
ImageGiant plated lizard (Gerrhosaurus validus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageGiant plated lizard (Gerrhosaurus validus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageGiant plated lizard (Gerrhosaurus validus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageMarsh terrapin Pelomedusa subrufo by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageMarsh terrapin Pelomedusa subrufo by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageMarsh terrapin Pelomedusa subrufo by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

More elephants:
ImageAfrican bush elephant (Loxodonta africana) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageBlue wildebeest by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageBlue wildebeest by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Driving along some more, we go over a hill and find a massive herd of cape buffalo:
ImageCape Buffalo by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageCape Buffalo by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageCape Buffalo by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageCape Buffalo by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageCape Buffalo by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

I only had the Sigma and didn’t bring my wide angle with me, so I couldn’t capture just how massive the herd was, but it was easily in the couple of hundreds of animals.

ImageCape Buffalo by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageCape Buffalo by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageCape Buffalo by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imageox pecker by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageCape Buffalo by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_6376v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageCape Buffalo by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Back on the road again, we cruised up another leopard tortoise:
Imageleopard tortoise Stigmochelys pardalis by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imageleopard tortoise Stigmochelys pardalis by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagecommon warthog (Phacochoerus africanus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Back to camp for lunch, some kind of awesome lasagna:
Imagearound camp by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Stew from some of the local game:
Imagearound camp by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageCape dwarf gecko (Lygodactylus capensis) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_6430v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageHelmeted Guineafowl by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

And the biggest killer in South Africa:
Imagehippopotamus (Hippopotamus amphibius) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagehippopotamus (Hippopotamus amphibius) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagehippopotamus (Hippopotamus amphibius) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

But that baby is oh so cute:
Imagehippopotamus (Hippopotamus amphibius) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagehippopotamus (Hippopotamus amphibius) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageGrey heron by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Awesome steaks that night for dinner! Africa is definitely the place for meat lovers……
Imagearound camp by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Kobus being awesome:
Imagearound camp by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagearound camp by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagearound camp by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

So damn good; zucchini, cheese with cauliflower, roasted potatoes, and steak:
Imagearound camp by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagearound camp by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

22 October 2013 – day 7
It rained last night. I walked around camp. I could hear rain frogs calling in the distance, but couldn’t find them, as they would stop as soon as you approached near. I also think they call from underground for the most part, only coming above ground during majorly intense rainstorms.

ImageIMG_6548v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_6551v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_6552v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_6554v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_6577v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageGarman's toad (Bufo garmani) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_6595v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

It rained again that night, so we had dinner inside the kitchen area again:
Imagearound camp by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagearound camp by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Acorn squash stuffed with cheddar cheese:
Imagearound camp by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

From left, Li Fei, Li Qiaong (he arrived a few days later into the trip), Wu Long, Scott, and Kobus:
Imagearound camp by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageGarman's toad (Bufo garmani) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageGarman's toad (Bufo garmani) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr


23 October 2013 – day 8
ImageIMG_6616v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_6617v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

These guys were really hard to photograph, Vervet monkeys:
ImageVervet monkeys by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Along that same note, I never got any decent shot of the baboons we’d seen off and on.

ImageCape Buffalo by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imageimpala (Aepyceros melampus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imageimpala (Aepyceros melampus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageCape Buffalo by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

During one of our random stops, I flipped a log and found a decently sized scorpion. I was away from the rest of the guys and wanted to show them. So I found a green twig and bent it in half, and then used it kind of like a pair of nut crackers to grab the stinger. I definitely didn’t feel comfortable pinning a scorpion in an unknown country, unknown species, and given how far out we were from anything. Once I restrained it with the twigs, milky venom started pouring from the stinger. I walked it over to the guys for pics and info on the species. Paul told me that it was a spitting scorpion! A species that can spray its venom into the eyes of an attacker. He said it was incredibly potent and said a sting would definitely result in a trip to the hospital, and if one was allergic, can easily result in death. Oh, and to make things even more interesting, once I got back to the states and did some more research on the species, I found out that it has two different types of venoms! And can decide which venom it wants to use, depending on the situation. The first venom is a “pre-venom” which aids the second venom in being taken up more rapidly. The pre-venom is also the one that is used when it sprays.

ImageAfrican spitting scorpion (Parabuthus transvaalicus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageAfrican spitting scorpion (Parabuthus transvaalicus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageCrowned Lapwing by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Some of the local vegetation, Acacia trees. For those familiar, these plants are extremely tough, very sharp and strong spines. It’s amazing to see elephants stripping Acacia plants of their leaves with their trunks, paying no nevermind to the spines:
ImageIMG_6676v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagesouthern foam-nest tree frog (Chiromantis xerampelina) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagesouthern foam-nest tree frog (Chiromantis xerampelina) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imageimpala (Aepyceros melampus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imageimpala (Aepyceros melampus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

From here we started driving around again. We up on another vehicle heading down the road. Paul got out to talk to them for awhile, then walked over to our truck and told us to follow him. The three vehicles went down a bunch of random roads until we got to a watering hole where we all exited the vehicles. The guys in the new car said that they were there to release a snake. They live in Tazeen, and had a call from a woman complaining about a python in her kitchen, so they caught it, and now they were relocating it and releasing it. Paul obviously thought we’d be keen to see it – and of course we were.

ImageAfrican rock python (Python sebae) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageAfrican rock python (Python sebae) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageAfrican rock python (Python sebae) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageAfrican rock python (Python sebae) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageAfrican rock python (Python sebae) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageAfrican rock python (Python sebae) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

She was about 4 metres.

ImageAfrican rock python (Python sebae) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageAfrican rock python (Python sebae) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Wu Long observing from a distance (he’s afraid of snakes – but he loves to eat them. But since befriending me, he has told me he is no longer going to eat them):
ImageAfrican rock python (Python sebae) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Back on the road again, we came across this mother and calf. Paul and Jean Claude estimated it to be a day or two old. It was the youngest calf they had ever seen before.
ImageAfrican bush elephant (Loxodonta africana) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageAfrican bush elephant (Loxodonta africana) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

More Rhinos:
ImageWhite rhino by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageWhite rhino by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageWhite rhino by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageWhite rhino by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

A herd of all females:
ImageAfrican bush elephant (Loxodonta africana) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageAfrican bush elephant (Loxodonta africana) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagehippopotamus (Hippopotamus amphibius) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageAfrican bush elephant (Loxodonta africana) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageAfrican bush elephant (Loxodonta africana) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageNile crocodile (Crocodylus niloticus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageGiraffe by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageGiraffe by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageGiraffe by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Back at camp, cooking up some more meat:
Imagearound camp by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagearound camp by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagearound camp by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr


24 October 2013 – day 9
ImageIMG_1882 SX50v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageGiraffe by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

So the ticks in South Africa are actually kind of pretty, as weird as that may sound:
ImageIMG_6859v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_6861v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Big old solo bull:
ImageAfrican bush elephant (Loxodonta africana) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageAfrican bush elephant (Loxodonta africana) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageAfrican bush elephant (Loxodonta africana) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageAfrican bush elephant (Loxodonta africana) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

And another (elephants have some interesting social structures too – often times if a male is a jerk, he’ll get kicked out of a herd, and that’s when he becomes a solo bull male, herdless. Sometimes they’ll find a new herd, but usually they just remain solo. Guess that’s the price to pay for being a jerk):
ImageAfrican bush elephant (Loxodonta africana) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr


Most houses and properties are surrounded by high voltage fences to try and keep the megafauna from raiding gardens, or the residents:
ImageIMG_1919 SX50v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Another writhing skink:
ImageSundevall's writhing lizard (Lygosoma sundevalli) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

That night we had cape buffalo steaks:
Imagearound camp, preparing some buffalo steaks by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagearound camp, preparing some buffalo steaks by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagearound camp, preparing some buffalo steaks by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagearound camp, preparing some buffalo steaks by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

And they were oh so good:
Imagebuffalo steaks! by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagebuffalo steaks! by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagearound camp by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagearound camp by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr


25 October 2013 – day 10
ImageIMG_7044v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_7046v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Oddly colored Leopard tortoise that was being attacked by ground hornbills – we also found the shell of a hinged-back tortoise that had been killed by hornbills:
Imageleopard tortoise Stigmochelys pardalis by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imageleopard tortoise Stigmochelys pardalis by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imageleopard tortoise Stigmochelys pardalis by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagedwarf mongoose by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagedwarf mongoose by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagedwarf mongoose by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageTwo-striped skink (Trachylepis striata) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageTwo-striped skink (Trachylepis striata) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_1950 SX50v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_1951 SX50v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_1953 SX50v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_1957 SX50v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_1960 SX50v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_1966 SX50v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_1969 SX50v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagearound camp by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Ok, so this next part is kind of crazy. Today was our last day at Timbavarti. It was a clear day, so temps were quite decent. Sucks that the weather was getting good on our last day, but that seems to be how things go with me…. Just my luck.

Paul was bringing in some new clients the next day, so we had to vacate the camp. The plan for the last two days was to go to a different game reserve called Bushriver. Scott said I would really like it as that’s where he finds the most herps. It’s also not a primitive setup – so there’s stuff like electricity, cell phone reception, internet, and swimming pools. It’s very “froufrou,” very high end.

So we started packing up the trucks, loading everyone’s gear in the backs. Because of all of the people, we had layers and layers of luggage. I’m riding in the bed of the truck, standing up, looking at the road ahead of us. We are nearing the entrance to Timbavarti, when I look up in the road and see a massive snake just sitting in the middle of the road. We approach it and Jean-Claude slams on the brakes. It’s a 3-m black mamba!! One of THE snakes I had been wanting to see/ photograph on this trip. I’m freaking out, tearing through luggage trying to find my snake tongs. Up in the road ahead of us, Jean-Claude sees another vehicle driving towards us. He yells back to me: “Kevin, you can’t get out here! We got another vehicle approaching.”

UGH!! Frustration.

I look back on the road, the snake is just sitting there, perfectly still, head slightly raised. Valuable milliseconds ticking away. “alright, alright, I can’t get out…. Camera! Where’s my camera?” So now I start tearing through another set of luggage, all the while even more additional milliseconds ticking away. Finally get my camera bag, glance up at the snake – it’s still sitting there, the other vehicle is getting closer still. Open the bag, and my damn wide angle lens is on the camera.

AHHH! Frustration.

I remove the wide angle and start to put on the Sigma telephoto. The other vehicle has now made it to the snake and peering at it. “What is it??” they yell over to us…. jesus, how can one NOT know what a black mamba is.

The lens is finally on. I look back at the snake, it’s starting to move! Dammit! I gotta look through the view finder, zoom in, focus, make some adjustments to my settings, and: “click, click” – I get off TWO shots before it’s now gone….. can one say “frustration”……

Here is the better of the two shots:
Imagehorrible, yet only shot of my lifer Black mamba by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

But… at least I have the visual memory of it. The experience. At least I got to see a black mamba, something that’s been on my list since about 8 years old!

Later, Jean-Claude told me, that had that other vehicle not been approaching us, he would have let me get out of the vehicle for a closer look. He knew that was the snake I wanted to see.

Okay, so we spent the afternoon driving over to Bushriver, about 1.5 hrs away back west.

ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

We arrived basically around sunset. One of the other things that makes Bushriver different from Timbavarti, is that they do not have the Big Five (elephant, buffalo, rhino, lion, leopard), and so that’s why it’s okay to walk around by yourself in the daytime or nighttime. You still need to be aware of hippos (and crocs), but otherwise you’re good.

ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

So Bushriver is EXTREMELY nice, but the way it works is kind of similar to Timbavarti. The lodge is provided, and the facilities, but you still have to provide all of your own food and drink.

ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Our “tents” at Bushriver:
ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr


26 October 2013 – day 11
Scott and the crew left early to hunt field/ prairie game. I stayed at Bushriver to walk around the property.

ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

The land manager’s sexy jeep:
ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageCommon Bulbul by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageWhite-throated robin-chat by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageWhite-throated robin-chat by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageSpotted Sand Lizard (Pedioplanis lineoocelata) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageSpotted Sand Lizard (Pedioplanis lineoocelata) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_7205v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_7211v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_7213v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageTwo-striped skink (Trachylepis striata) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

He just caught a dragonfly:
ImageWhite-fronted bee-eater by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

He just caught a dragonfly:
ImageWhite-fronted bee-eater by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageSekukhune flat lizard (Platysaurus orientalis) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageSekukhune flat lizard (Platysaurus orientalis) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageTwo-striped skink (Trachylepis striata) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

These guys were on the ceiling of one of the lodges. Couldn’t get one down, so these are my best shots:
ImageWahlberg's velvet gecko Homopholis walbergii by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageWahlberg's velvet gecko Homopholis walbergii by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_7275v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageHelmented Guineafowl by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageLittle Bee-eater (left), White-fronted bee-eater (right) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageLittle Bee-eater (left), White-fronted bee-eater (right) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageLittle Bee-eater (left), White-fronted bee-eater (right) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_7307v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageLittle Bee-eater by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageLesser striped swallow by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageLesser striped swallow by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagerainbow skink Trachylepis margaritophora by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagerainbow skink Trachylepis margaritophora by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageGiant plated lizard (Gerrhosaurus validus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageRainbow skink (Trachylepis margaritifer) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageRainbow skink (Trachylepis margaritifer) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageHadada Ibis by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageGiant plated lizard (Gerrhosaurus validus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageGiant plated lizard (Gerrhosaurus validus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageGiant plated lizard (Gerrhosaurus validus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageGiant plated lizard (Gerrhosaurus validus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_7371v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_7379v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

I couldn’t believe how gorgeous these flat lizards were!
ImageCommon Flat Lizard (Platysaurus intermedius) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageCommon Flat Lizard (Platysaurus intermedius) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageGiraffe by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imageklipspringer by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_7401v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageCommon Flat Lizard (Platysaurus intermedius) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageCommon Flat Lizard (Platysaurus intermedius) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

This next lizard was way up on my list, and definitely wasn’t expecting to see one. I hate the fact that I never got to get my hands on one, and how crappy the shots are (again, low light, high ISO in order to handle the Sigma at 500mm hand-held):
ImageWarren's girdled lizard Cordylus warreni by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageWarren's girdled lizard Cordylus warreni by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageWarren's girdled lizard Cordylus warreni by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageWarren's girdled lizard Cordylus warreni by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageWarren's girdled lizard Cordylus warreni by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageWarren's girdled lizard Cordylus warreni by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagegrey go-away-bird (Corythaixoides concolor) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageCommon Flat Lizard (Platysaurus intermedius) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Kobus and Scott preparing some guinea fowl from earlier that day. Scott was preparing his “Kung Pow Guinea Fowl” dish for his Chinese clients.
ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Li Qiaong got himself a waterbuck that day, and he wanted to have penis and testicle soup – I passed on this dish:
ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

At night, Scott threw the innards from the guinea fowl and ungulate at the edge of the river bank to draw in the attention of some nile crocs:
ImageNile crocodile (Crocodylus niloticus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageNile crocodile (Crocodylus niloticus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageNile crocodile (Crocodylus niloticus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

The kung pow guinea fowl dish:
ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Steak from the buck:
ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Toasting for the end of a good trip. That’s Jean-Claude on the far right. Don’t think I’ve had any pics of him yet:
ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

After dinner, Scott asked Jean-Claude is he’d mind taking us for a quick road cruise. Jean-Claude was quite tired, but he knew how important snakes were to me and felt bad for the abysmal luck we had while at Timbavarti. He also said he knew of a good road very close by. So we got some lights and some bags and hit the road.

Almost immediately we find a DOR, freshly hit African egg-eater! Another snake I’ve always wanted to see. One of those species you grow up reading about and learning about.
ImageRhombic egg-eater (Dasypeltis scabra) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Shortly after, we find a live Red-lipped Herald snake (Crotaphopeltis hotamboeia). We obviously don’t spend time on it at the moment, we bag it. I’ll photograph it tomorrow.

Then another few minutes past that, there’s another snake crossing the road! All of this made me think “wow, had we been here the entire time, just think of the numbers and the species we would have seen by now.”

The next snake was a Snouted Night Adder (Causus defilippii)! A species I really wanted to see, much more so than the more common Rhombic night adder. So prior to the trip, I obviously bought a bunch of books of African species. And these night adders (Causus) were thrown in with the Viperidae. And they really do not look like vipers in the least. Especially the Snouted Night Adder. It looks more like a North American hognose:
ImageSnouted Night Adder (Causus defilippii) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageSnouted Night Adder (Causus defilippii) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Right?? It also acts like a hognose, puffing up, hissing, doing the little jabby strikes hogs do. But this thing is supposed to be a viper. Round eyes…

Well so I was super curious. None of the books explicitly mentioned what sort of dentition (fang arrangement) these guys had. If it’s a viper, it should have front hinged fangs. And I’ve never seen or heard of a round-eyed (well, round pupil) hinged fanged species. So I got a tooth pick and wanted to see for myself:
ImageSnouted Night Adder (Causus defilippii) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Low and behold… front hinged fangs. Round pupil. No pit of course. Well damn. That’s just crazy. This snake looks SO much like a colubrid.

27 October 2013 – day 12
Today was our last day. Li Fei wanted to get to Johannesburg to enjoy city life and was complaining about being “in the bush” for too long. Everyone else was floored by the statement. Wu Long said next time he will not bring Li Fei. If not for Li Fei, we would have been here for another full day and evening…

The majority of the day I spent walking around the grounds again and photographing the night adder and herald snake from the night before. Here’s the herald snake:

Imagered-lipped herald snake (Crotaphopeltis hotamboeia) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagered-lipped herald snake (Crotaphopeltis hotamboeia) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagered-lipped herald snake (Crotaphopeltis hotamboeia) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagered-lipped herald snake (Crotaphopeltis hotamboeia) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

Imagered-lipped herald snake (Crotaphopeltis hotamboeia) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

These next two shots are comparison shots between my SX-50 point and shoot, 1200mm:
ImageNile crocodile (Crocodylus niloticus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

And my Canon 7D with the Sigma 50-500mm (80-800mm when converted on a crop-sensor):
ImageNile crocodile (Crocodylus niloticus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

The weight difference between the two and the amount of space is dramatic. The 7D with the sigma lens weighs around 6 lbs! So 6 lbs of weight (not to mention space), to achieve the 800mm shot you see above. The SX-50 weighs in at 1.3 lbs. So 1/5th of the weigh (22%), and achieved the 1200mm you see two shots above. It is pretty impressive at times. Overall, you obviously have WAY more control with a real camera. But if space is an issue, the SX-50 is a very nice camera to have. Oh, and so long as you aren’t using it all the time for telephoto, but just a little here, a little there. Had I brought only the SX-50, I would have missed out on tons of shots. It’s just not fast enough. Battery doesn’t last as long, stuff like that. It’s not a high performance telephoto point and shoot.

ImageIMG_7616v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageIMG_7619v3 by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

At the base of this platform I found a Western stripe-bellied sand snake (Psammophis subtaeniatus), which is on par with racers and the like back in the states. It evaded capture….
ImageBush River game lodge by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageNile monitor (Varanus niloticus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageNile crocodile (Crocodylus niloticus) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

ImageTwo-striped skink (Trachylepis striata) by Kevin Messenger, on Flickr

In the afternoon, Mark picked us all up in his van and we drove 5 hours back to J’burg.

All in all the trip was obviously a success. It definitely could have been better, but it was just too early in the year. For the entire time, it was almost always overcast, during which time the temp never got out of the 60’s and was sometimes as low as the 50’s. On one day the sun did come out, and the temp skyrocketed… but then clouds rolled in again, and it went back to freezing.

Also, once we got to Bushriver, and started road cruising, we really started finding more snakes – unfortunately we were only in Bushriver for one night… While having dinner one night, Wu Long told Scott, “next time we should stay here.” I definitely agreed! The camp was cool out at Timbavarti, but I definitely prefer places where I’m allowed to walk around solo without the fear of predation or trampling. Plus road cruising! In one night of road cruising, we found more snakes than the previous 10 days of habitat searching.

Wu Long offered me another free ride to South Africa in the Fall of 2014 (this year), but I’m just way too busy right now with my dissertation. So he offered for the Fall of 2015. Here’s to hoping! When it’s all said and done, it was still a free trip to South Africa where I got to see tons of large mammals I’ve always wanted to see, the herps were just a bonus. Even had I not seen anything, I would have still enjoyed myself, the scenery, and the company. Of course the herps really make the trip, but everyone understands what I mean.

Total herp list for the trip:

1. Black mamba (Dendroaspis polylepis)
2. Black-headed centipede-eater (Aparallactus capensis)
3. Red-lipped herald snake (Crotaphopeltis hotamboeia)
4. Rhombic egg-eater (Dasypeltis scabra)
5. Snouted night adder (Causus defilippii)
6. Western stripe-bellied sand snake (Psammophis subtaeniatus)

7. Flapneck chameleon (Chamaeleo dilepis)
8. Southern tree agama (Acanthocercus atricollis)
9. Sundevall’s writhing lizard (Lygosoma sundevalli)
10. Nile monitor (Varanus niloticus)
11. White-throated monitor (Varanus albigularis)
12. Cape dwarf gecko (Lygodactylus capensis)
13. Wahlberg’s velvet gecko (Homopholis walbergii)
14. Turner’s tubercled gecko (Chondrodactylus tuneri)
15. Giant plated lizard (Gerrhosaurus validus)
16. Yellow-throated plated lizard (Gerrhosaurus flavigularis)
17. Rough plated lizard (Gerrhosaurus major)
18. Warren’s Girdled Lizard (Cordylus warreni)
19. Rainbow skink (Trachylepis margaritophora)
20. Variable skink (Trachylepis varia)
21. Two-striped skink (Trachylepis striata)
22. Sekukhune flat lizard (Platysaurus orientalis)
23. Common flat lizard (Platysaurus intermedius)
24. Pondo flat gecko (Afroedura pondolia)
25. Spotted Sand lizard (Pedioplanis lineocelata)

26. Nile crocodile (Crocodylus niloticus)

27. Marsh terrapin (Pelomedusa subrufa)
28. Leopard tortoise (Stigmochelys pardalis)
29. Speke’s Hinged-back tortoise (Kinixys spekii)

30. Garman’s toad (Bufo garmani)
31. African clawed frog (Xenopus laevis)
32. Anchieta’s Ridged frog (Ptychadena anchietae)
33. Southern foam nest treefrog (Chiromantis xerampelina)

Total mammal list for the trip:
1. African bush elephant
2. Hippopotamus
3. Lion
4. Giraffe
5. White rhino
6. Steenbock
7. Bushbuck
8. Waterbuck
9. Impala
10. Greater kudu
11. Nyala
12. Grey Duiker
13. Klipspringer
14. Blue wildebeest
15. Cape buffalo
16. Burchell’s zebra
17. Banded mongoose
18. Dwarf mongoose
19. Slender mongoose
20. Spotted genet
21. Spotted civet
22. Spotted hyena
23. Honey badger
24. Cape porcupine
25. Savanna baboon
26. Vervet monkey
27. Warthog
28. Tree squirrel
29. Side-striped jackal
30. Black-backed jackal
31. Wahlberg’s epauletted fruit-bat
32. Unknown bat sp. in tent
33. Unknown mouse sp.
Tamara D. McConnell
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Re: South Africa 2013, part 2

Post by Tamara D. McConnell »

More awesomeness.
The leopard tortoises are gorgeous, but the common flat lizard really knocked me out. Thanks for sharing this wonderful adventure.
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Roki
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Re: South Africa 2013, part 2

Post by Roki »

Loved reading these posts. Great trip and great shots. My mother goes to Africa a bunch and has been trying to get me to go. The list of things you got to see make it quite tempting. I also liked your discussions about the Sigma lens and the Canon SX50 and showing some comparisons. Currently I am looking in moving from the SX40 to a DSLR and was wondering about the Sigma 500mm lens for use on a Nikon3200.
Cheers,
Roki
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Nick Evans
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Re: South Africa 2013, part 2

Post by Nick Evans »

Great post!! You had some really amazing mammal sightings, as well as reptiles. The Snouted Night Adder is a really cool find!
Thanks for posting.
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chrish
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Re: South Africa 2013, part 2

Post by chrish »

Kevin,

Outstanding series. Great photos, great story, great diversity of beasts.

I noticed you didn't label all the birds. Didn't know if that was oversight or you hadn't looked them up. Don't remember all of them off the top of my head, but this one is a Black-bellied Korhaan or Black-bellied Bustard.

Image

Your photos bring back one prevailing memory of southern Africa .....this is not a good tourist destination for vegans! :lol:

Image

Man, do they make some great sausages down there!! :)

Thanks for posting this, but cut back on the food pictures, huh? It makes us all hungry.....well maybe not the penis and testes soup. ;)

Chris
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Kevin Messenger
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Re: South Africa 2013, part 2

Post by Kevin Messenger »

Thanks for the ID Chris. I thought that was the species, but wasn't sure, and so just left it blank. I made the change on the original Flickr image.
chrish wrote: Your photos bring back one prevailing memory of southern Africa .....this is not a good tourist destination for vegans! :lol:
Most definitely. Actually a friend of ours that used to be a vegetarian, when he went to Namibia, he reverted to non-vegetarian-ism, then when he got back to the states, went back to it. Until he met us..... Now he's back to being non-vegetarian.
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Jeff
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Re: South Africa 2013, part 2

Post by Jeff »

Kevin

What a very informative and entertaining shift from China! I spent a good half-hour absorbing it. The sausage that ChrisH noted first looked like the biggest Megatyphlops schlegelii ever recorded.

Jeff

[As an aside your sandveld skink Nucras caesicaudata is a Rainbow Skink (Trachylepis margaritophora); Nucras is a fine-scaled lacertid]
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Kevin Messenger
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Re: South Africa 2013, part 2

Post by Kevin Messenger »

Jeff wrote:[As an aside your sandveld skink Nucras caesicaudata is a Rainbow Skink (Trachylepis margaritophora); Nucras is a fine-scaled lacertid]
Thanks for the correction! I'll make changes in my notes, flickr and on here. Hopefully everything else was ID'd correctly
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Scott Lupien
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Re: South Africa 2013, part 2

Post by Scott Lupien »

Wow, Kevin! As always, you did an awesome job of describing the trip and the photos are really great!

It's taken me awhile to get to see this because I've been in Zimbabwe. Now I'm back out our friend Mark's house in South Africa and am finally getting caught up. Mark and I looked at these posts together and he also thoroughly enjoyed them!

Thanks for sharing!

Scott
KEAC
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Re: South Africa 2013, part 2

Post by KEAC »

Kevin,
I am in the planning stages of my first S. Africa trip, so my research has led me to some of your posts. Looks like you had a great time and the all expenses paid part is a nice bonus. Always entertaining reading about your trips and you are the first person I've known who has that little SX-50. Love that point and shoot. Thanks for sharing the info and take care.
Darin
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Kelly Mc
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Re: South Africa 2013, part 2

Post by Kelly Mc »

I love all those guys!

From the mega mammals to the bee eater to the handsome choppers sebae, I left out so many more I will look at again and again..

The Red Lipped Herald Snake oh, what a mystically beautiful little serpent
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Kelly Mc
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Re: South Africa 2013, part 2

Post by Kelly Mc »

I love all those guys!

From the mega mammals to the bee eater to the handsome choppers sebae, I left out so many more I will look at again and again..

The Red Lipped Herald Snake oh, what a mystically beautiful little serpent
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Kelly Mc
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Re: South Africa 2013, part 2

Post by Kelly Mc »

Hey - my laptop is doing this long running script thing so excuse please but I have to add how the photo with the sebae shows how a person that knows what their doing when they connect on a snake to restrain it - no matter what species it is. Whether its a king cobra or a big guy with a set of long ones, some people can tell the person handling is using perfect force. Not desperate degrees more.

It cant be taught and some never get it.

You sure got it! It was nice to enjoy!
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Kevin Messenger
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Re: South Africa 2013, part 2

Post by Kevin Messenger »

thanks for the comments and bump everyone! it's always nice to have little reminders of trips like this that you haven't looked back in awhile.

KEAC - the SX50 is really nice when space is an issue. It takes the place of my sigma in nearly all other situations. This Africa trip was one of the few times when the Sigma was one of my most frequently used lenses. And of course the SX50 wouldn't have been fast enough to capture a lot of the pics (moving vehicle, bumpy road, overcast sky/ low light - for almost every animal, I would need to bump up my ISO and my shutter and take tons of pics, and hope that at least one of them was stable enough - the SX50 wouldn't have been able to keep up with that demand - but when the conditions were calm, like in the croc test, it is a great little camera! But it was a good little test.

Kelly Mc - thanks for your comments as well!
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